In late winter and early spring, female goats (does) give birth to their babies (kids) and begin producing milk again after a months-long pause during pregnancy. It’s known as “kidding season,” and it’s as busy as it sounds. 

The milk this time of year is particularly rich in protein and butterfat, which translates to cheese that’s creamier, silkier, and deeply satisfying.

“It’s subtle, but the seasonality of that milk does get reflected,” says Chris Owen, founder of Spinning Spider Creamery in Marshall. “It shows up in the flavor and the mouthfeel.”

When we caught up with Owen, she was keeping a close eye on an 11-year-old Toggenburg goat named Caelen, who was due to kid that very day. By season’s end, roughly 60 does, about half the herd, will have given birth.

“We’re waiting for babies. We have our barn cameras on. We’re not sleeping much,” Owen says. “Every goat is precious to us.”

Chris Owen (left), founder of Spinning Spider Creamery with her goats and family.

While Spinning Spider produces fresh cheese year-round, spring is when things truly ramp up. The rosemary fig chèvre—made with house-made fig preserves—is a perennial favorite. And their award-winning Stackhouse, a bloomy rind cheese with gentle mushroom notes and a whisper of fresh milk, tends to disappear almost as quickly as it’s set out.

If you want to savor the season, stop by your favorite bakery for a loaf of fresh bread, slather it with chèvre, and drizzle it with local honey. Simple. Perfect.