FROM PARNASSUS TO PISGAH
Honoring Greek culinary culture in Appalachia
By Amy Bess Cook
***
Established in 1922, Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church in Asheville is the oldest Greek Orthodox church in North Carolina. And for the last four decades, the congregation has hosted the annual Asheville Greek Festival, welcoming thousands of visitors to revel in Greek food, music, and dancing. This year, it took place in late September.
“It’s a chance to not only see our culture on display, but to see the community our ancestors built thriving,” says festival Co-Chair Tommy Arakas. “We’ve got grandmothers and grandfathers in the kitchen alongside younger people, with 100 years of cooking experience between them.”
Importantly, the popularity of the festival reflects a bigger picture, one that portrays the influence of Greek heritage on local culinary history. Western North Carolina may not be home to the largest Greek immigrant population in the country (that honor goes to New York), but it is a place where the Greek community has unmistakably shaped food culture.
According to the Greek Archdiocese of North America, the first known Greek immigrant to Asheville, Demosthenes Psychoyios, arrived in 1900 and opened a café on Pack Square. Later, in the wake of World War II, Greeks maintained a steady presence in food culture—both locally and in the nation more broadly—as European immigrants poured into the United States.
Food has long held a central place in Greek life, so it seems natural that restaurant work became a popular pursuit for Greek immigrants.

A Greek pie known as Tiropita.
In her book The Lost Restaurants of Asheville, author Nan Chase writes that, by the mid-1950s, roughly 10% of the 150 some-odd restaurants in Asheville were owned by Greeks. Many such restaurants weren’t entirely focused on Greek cuisine; instead they adopted the classic American diner menu and integrated Greek cuisine like souvlaki alongside burgers and fries.
Today, you’ll still find such hybrid menus at beloved, longstanding establishments like 5 Points Diner, established by Ilias and Patrycja Sellas in 1972; Stoney Knob Café, owned by the Dermas family since 1962; and Apollo Flame Bistro, owned by the Papakonstantinou (“Pappas”) family for several generations.
Newer additions, like Brevard Diner (2020) and Feta Flav (2023) show that the pattern of Greek influence has continued into the modern day.
Whether for everyday meals or special occasions, Greek cuisine hits the spot. Here are some of the traditional celebratory dishes to try:
Honey-Coated Loukoumades
Legend has it that delectable honey-coated loukoumades, or donut holes, were served at the first Olympic Games in 776 BC as prizes for the victors. Thankfully, you needn’t be an athlete to indulge.
Moussaka
Ever-popular moussaka is a layered gratin of eggplant, potato, lamb, tomato, and herbed béchamel. Also common in Balkan and Arab cuisine, the dish is a centerpiece of Greek Christmas, Easter, and Sunday dinners.
Melomakarona Cookies Kourabiedes
Made with orange and spices and topped with honey and nuts, melomakarona cookies are wildly popular at Christmastime. Similarly, kourabiedes are almond shortbread cookies dusted with powdered sugar.
Vasilopita
Served at midnight on New Year’s Eve, vasilopita is a sweet cake honoring Saint Basil of Caesarea. Baked with a coin hidden inside, the cake promises a year of good luck to whoever finds the treasure.
Tiropita
Tiropita, a cheese pie made with flaky phyllo and feta, is popular during Carnival, the threeweek festival leading up to Greek Easter during which meat is typically omitted from the diet.
Roast Lamb
Traditionally prepared with garlic, rosemary, thyme, and onions, roast lamb might be fea – tured at a range of holidays including Thanks – giving or Christmas, but is most reliably part of Greek Easter.
Save
Save
Save
Save
Save
Save
Save
Save
Save
Save

Honey-coated loukoumades was said to be served at the first Olympic Games.
THE WEEKLY REVEL
Sign up for your free handpicked guide to enjoying life around Asheville.
Available weekly from May to October.